Rooms with a View….A Tale of 3 Rivers
Il pleut. Giving
me incentive to stay inside and write.
We’ve been on the lam for over 2 weeks with another to
go.
Tip: Stay at
least 2 weeks if you leave the country, lest you spend
most of your trip in dire jet lag.
Our first river is actually a canal, which should
count. It even
has locks. Canal
Saint Martin, hip and edgy, though Skip answers
“thugs” in response to my comment. Ce ne pas vrai. Kids abound.
Everyone seems to be on bicycles or driving remote
control
sailboats on the water in the late afternoon sun.
The #4 hotel in Paris on Trip Advisor, Le Citizen is aptly named for its power
to the people atmosphere and its emphasis on the
environment
and the arts. It
passes for reasonably priced in Paris and overwhelms
you with service.
Your very own loaner Ipad is loaded with information
which I wish I’d paid more attention to. A free mini-bar, an oxymoron,
with perhaps madelines or quelquechose baked in-house,
drinks in the
little fridge. Did
I mention a real breakfast and happy hour?
Free calls everywhere, a big help after Skip was
pickpocketed
on the Metro. We
let our guard down momentarily, forgetting that such
a helpful boy might have a motive when we were hauling
luggage.
We thanked him merrily, but Skip’s inch-thick wallet was
an easy score.
He’s collected the contents for years, so let’s hope it’s
only credit cards,
cash, and driver’s license.
Tip: never
carry anything in a back pocket unless it’s a mousetrap.
The Eurostar to London was a pleasure all by itself. I was so happy, I
forgot to freak out during the 20 minutes under the
English Channel.
A little over 2 hours from Paris to London.
I’d thought that London was the most expensive city for
tourists, at least in
Europe. Its hotels
are up there in price, but it’s a mere #15, behind NYC and
Paris in an online survey. I reserved a whole bunch of rooms,
upgrading us as I went.
I hope very much that I cancelled all but one,
our room with an expansive view of the Thames, journey’s
river #2.
We loved staring at all the river activity, barges and
bridges. We also walked
up and down the river, our center for the trip.
The London Eye, on the Thames
Travel tip: get a tiny little Fitbit if you want the
easiest pedometer imaginable.
I gloat over my beaucoup de steps, once over 20,000 in a
day. It may help
override a few of the calories I am consuming. Croissants, pan chocolat, Bertillon ice
cream, eclairs, little custards, flan, and meringues. An ile flotante for dessert today.
London highlight:
a long-awaited reunion with my friend Yvonne and her husband
Chris. I’d last
seen her in the 60s and re-found her via a daughter on Facebook.
Yvonne was born in Singapore or Malay/sia and was sent to
boarding school in
England at age 7, raised more or less by the nuns. We met in summer at Las Arenas
on Spain’s north coast.
She was a beam of light for me. I
was a “Miss” (English teacher)
and then a substitute nanny when the real one quit in a
huff. It was a seriously
dysfunctional household, the Marquesa mother barely
putting up with or seeing her children.
The rich can be at risk.
My cinematic lowlight was sitting in a park while the kids
played, knitting to pass time. The other nannies gathered in a buzzing
circle, talking about
me, until one approached and described my sin: knitting on Sunday.
I grabbed the kids and got out of dodge before the
stoning could begin.
Spanish restaurant in Kensington. We had every tapa imaginable from octopus
and calamares to tortilla de patata and cheeses. When Skip’s sherry ended up
on my lap (I smelled lovely all day) another appeared by
magic.
Our next stop was the unique Victoria and Albert Museum,
an enormous and marvelous
place. We had the
most unusual tour imaginable. You first
had to sign your life away,
swearing you suffered no vertigo nor claustrophobia. I lied.
7 of us climbed into a wall, ascending a tiny winding
staircase that went up and up and up
to a small room with a giant prism which collected data
and showed it in color lines and
patterns. I was
busy in the corner surreptitiously using my inhaler, but off we went again
to the very rooftop and a dramatic view of London. I felt so successful.
The following day we visited the National Portrait
Gallery for an exhibit depicting the Queen
during her long reign.
Jolly good as we Brits like to say.
She loves to encourage the arts
and seems to have
no ego when it comes to her portrayals.
If you’ve not seen Julien Freud’s
image, yikes. I would have beheaded him on the spot.
We also visited Tate Modern, mostly a disappointment. Paying for the Munsch show can
best be termed big
mistake. It was a real downer, even
without The Scream, MIA from the show,
apparently safe in Norway
I spent too long in the gift shop. I emerged to the main hall of this drab
former power building to
find Skip flushed pink and deep in conversation with a
young woman who was practically sitting
on his lap.
Hmmm. I stood awhile, taking
photos as evidence. Finally joining
them, the
woman ignored me (as did Skip), continuing her intense
monologue. It turned out this was